The Alley to Genovese

Every Genovese begins in an alley, and in Naples, every alley is a promise.

Mr. Daniel had heard of it long before Naples. A whisper, a rumor, a dish that belonged to those who stayed at the table long after common sense excused them. Pasta alla Genovese. Not Liguria’s green pesto, not a jar tucked in a tourist’s bag, but something else entirely — Naples’ own secret, if Naples can be said to have any left.

He had read that it to…